One of the things I enjoy most about restoring vintage watches is discovering the stories hidden behind unfamiliar names. This time it was a Strand De Luxe automatic powered by the reliable ETA 2472, a movement used by countless Swiss manufacturers throughout the 1960s. While the brand itself isn’t well documented, the movement inside tells a very different story. During the golden age of Swiss watchmaking, hundreds of smaller companies assembled watches using high-quality ébauche movements from suppliers such as ETA, A. Schild and FHF, creating timepieces that were every bit as capable as those from more famous brands.
This particular watch was already running when I received it, so it didn’t require any fault finding—just a proper service after decades of use. Better still, it came fitted with a vintage leather strap complete with an authentic 1950s Omega signed buckle. It was a nice little bonus and a reminder that these watches often picked up interesting accessories throughout their lifetime.
First Impressions
The crystal, had seen better days. While it could have been polished, it had enough wear that replacing it would give the watch a much cleaner appearance once the restoration was complete.
The first step was removing the strap, and it quickly became clear that someone had been creative with a past repair. One side used a normal spring bar, but the other had a fixed wire lug, so there was no straightforward way to remove the strap.
Looking closer, I discovered that part of the leather strap had been held together using small pieces of wire instead of proper hardware. It looked very much like a DIY repair by a previous owner, probably done to extend the life of the original strap. Unfortunately, there was no way to remove it intact, so I had to cut the old leather away to free the watch. It’s always fascinating to come across these little improvised fixes—they’re a reminder that these watches were everyday companions, and owners often repaired them however they could rather than replacing them.
With the strap removed, I could finally inspect the watch more closely. Overall, it had aged remarkably well. The dial and hands were in excellent condition, retaining plenty of their original charm with only the expected signs of age. The case showed the usual light scratches and wear you’d expect from a watch that’s been around for more than half a century.
A Familiar ETA Movement
Opening the case revealed an ETA 2472 that was surprisingly clean. Having serviced several ETA movements recently, I felt much more comfortable tackling this one. One thing I’ve come to appreciate is how consistent these movements are. Once you’ve become familiar with the overall layout, each new ETA calibre feels a little less intimidating.
Removing the automatic winding rotor was straightforward, and the rest of the movement came apart without any surprises. The only additional complexity was the calendar mechanism, which adds a few extra parts to organise during disassembly. Taking the time to keep everything in order always makes the reassembly process much easier.
One detail that really caught my attention was the design of the keyless works. Rather than having a permanently engaged transmission, the transmission wheel actually slides across depending on whether the crown is being used for winding or hand-setting. Pulling the crown shifts the transmission wheel into a different position, allowing it to engage the appropriate gears. It’s an elegant little piece of engineering that’s easy to overlook when the movement is assembled but fascinating to watch during disassembly.
A Small Setback
Before I could begin putting everything back together, I ran into a familiar frustration—my Chinese mainspring winder decided it wasn’t going to cooperate. I’ve had mixed success with these inexpensive winders, and if I had to put a number on it, they only work for me about 30% of the time. This definitely wasn’t one of those occasions.
At that point, I figured it was probably time to invest in a better-quality mainspring winder. For this restoration, though, I had little choice but to install the mainspring by hand. It takes a bit more patience and care, but thankfully everything went smoothly and the mainspring was safely back in the barrel.
Reassembly
After all the parts had been cleaned, it was time for reassembly. This is where being organised during disassembly really pays off. Even so, there were a few moments where I had to stop and work out exactly how each component fitted back into place, particularly around the keyless works and calendar mechanism.
Fortunately, with a bit of patience and a few trial fits, everything gradually came together. Piece by piece, the movement started to look complete again. There’s always a satisfying moment when the final bridge drops into place, all the wheels spin freely, and you know you’ve managed to put everything back exactly where it belongs.
Bringing the Watch Back to Life
With the movement serviced, it was time to give the exterior the attention it deserved. I decided to fit a new crystal, and it completely transformed the watch. It’s amazing how much difference a clear crystal makes, revealing the dial as it was meant to be seen.
The dial turned out to be one of the highlights of this restoration. The silver sunburst finish still catches the light beautifully, while the applied hour markers, faceted hands and framed date window give the watch a refined appearance that’s easy to appreciate. For a watch that’s likely more than sixty years old, it has survived remarkably well.
To complete the restoration, I fitted a new brown leather strap with quick-release spring bars. It complements the polished steel case perfectly while making future strap changes much easier. The warm brown leather also suits the vintage styling far better than the worn strap the watch arrived with.
Final Thoughts
Although Strand De Luxe isn’t a name you’ll often hear among collectors, watches like this are a reminder that the movement often matters more than the name on the dial. During the 1950s and 1960s, many lesser-known Swiss brands built watches around proven ETA movements, producing reliable and beautifully finished timepieces that have quietly stood the test of time.
This restoration was one of the more enjoyable projects I’ve completed recently. The movement was clean, the service was straightforward, and apart from an uncooperative mainspring winder, everything went according to plan. Sometimes it’s the lesser-known watches that surprise you the most, and this Strand De Luxe is a perfect example of how an anonymous Swiss watch can still have plenty of character—and a quality movement worthy of preserving for many more years.