My first full ETA 2651 service and another forgotten vintage watch brought back to life.
One of the things I enjoy most about learning how to restore vintage watches is discovering different Swiss brands and what possible movement they might have.
For learning I mostly buy watches in bulk. Most of the watches are rough. Some become donors, some are beyond saving, and a few turn out to be hidden gems waiting for another chance. Every watch teaches something different, whether it’s a new movement, an unfamiliar complication or simply another opportunity to refine my servicing skills.
This Ladies Edox Automatic was one of those surprises, it displayed a beautiful metallic sunburst that shifted between deep olive green, bronze and golden champagne depending on the angle. It was one of those dials that simply couldn’t be appreciated beneath decades of scratches and grime.
Even better, opening the case would introduce me to another milestone in my watchmaking journey—my first complete service of an ETA 2651 automatic movement.
First Impressions
Like many of the watches I buy from bulk lots, this Edox had clearly lived a full life.
The acrylic crystal was covered in scratches that made the dial appear dull and lifeless. Dirt had accumulated around the bezel and crown, while years of wear had left the case covered in fine scratches.
The gold plating had also begun to show its age.
High-contact areas around the lugs and edges had worn through to the base metal beneath, giving the watch the honest patina you’d expect from something that had probably spent decades on someone’s wrist.
Despite its cosmetic condition, the watch still retained plenty of charm.
The applied baton indices were all present, the framed date window remained crisp, and the original handset was intact.
Most impressive of all was that wonderful dial. Under direct light it transformed into a rich gradient of greens, bronzes and golds that immediately convinced me this watch deserved to be restored.
A Tight Case Back
Before I could even inspect the movement, the watch presented its first challenge.
The case back refused to budge.
My standard case opener simply wasn’t getting enough grip, and after a couple of careful attempts I decided not to force it.
Instead, I reached for my heavy-duty case back remover.
Sometimes having the right tool makes all the difference. With much better leverage and grip, the case finally gave way without leaving scratches or damage behind.
It’s one of those small lessons that every hobbyist eventually learns—don’t fight the watch; use the proper tool.
Case Inspection
Stamped in between the lugs was a Goldfilled G 10 marking, indicating that the case was gold filled rather than solid gold.
During the 1960s and 70s this was common practice among Swiss manufacturers. A 10-micron plating provided significantly better durability than a simple gold flash while keeping watches affordable.
Sitting inside was a clean-looking Swiss automatic movement manufactured by ETA.
This would become my first complete service of the ETA 2651.
A Brief History of Edox
Edox was founded in 1884 by Christian Ruefli-Flury in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland.
The company takes its name from the Greek word meaning “measure of time” and spent much of the twentieth century producing quality Swiss watches for everyday wear.
Although modern collectors often associate Edox with professional dive watches like the Hydrosub and sports chronographs, the company also produced a wide range of elegant dress watches during the 1960s and 70s.
Many of these watches used reliable ETA movements, making them excellent everyday timepieces that continue running decades later with proper servicing.
Today, vintage Edox watches remain somewhat overlooked, which makes them an enjoyable discovery when they appear in mixed watch lots.
Meet the ETA 2651
Inside this watch is the ETA 2651 automatic movement.
Produced during the late 1960s and into the 1970s, the movement was designed specifically for ladies’ automatic watches.
Its specifications include:
- Swiss automatic movement
- Approximately 17 jewels
- 21,600 beats per hour
- Date complication
- Compact ladies’ movement
- Reliable Swiss lever escapement
Like many ETA calibres, the emphasis wasn’t on decoration but on reliability and serviceability.
That made it the perfect movement for learning.
Disassembly
As this was my first ETA 2651, I took plenty of reference photos before removing anything.
Almost immediately I discovered that this movement doesn’t always follow the sequence I’d become accustomed to.
One surprise was the cannon pinion.
On several movements I’ve previously serviced, the cannon pinion can be removed relatively early during disassembly.
Not this one.
The ETA 2651 connects the cannon pinion to an intermediate wheel underneath, meaning the calendar works and much of the keyless works must first be removed before the cannon pinion can come away.
It caught me by surprise, but moments like these are exactly why I enjoy working on unfamiliar movements.
Every calibre teaches you something new.
A Clever Dial Retention System
Another interesting discovery came when removing the dial.
Instead of the traditional dial foot screws found on many Swiss movements, the ETA uses small retaining latches.
Simply moving each latch aside releases the dial foot without removing any screws.
It’s an elegant little design that makes dial removal remarkably simple once you know how it works.
It’s also another reminder that not every movement follows the same conventions.
The Automatic Winding System
The automatic winding system was another highlight of the movement.
The oscillating weight and rotor assembly is compact, well engineered and surprisingly satisfying to study.
Taking time to understand how the rotor transferred energy through the winding train gave me a much greater appreciation for ETA’s engineering.
One of the things I enjoy most about learning watchmaking is reaching those moments where everything suddenly makes sense.
You stop looking at individual parts and begin understanding the entire mechanism as a system.
Cleaning and Inspection
With the movement fully disassembled, every component was cleaned before careful inspection.
Fortunately, the movement had survived remarkably well.
The pivots were clean, the jewels showed no obvious damage, and the gear train remained in excellent condition.
The rotor bearing also felt smooth, suggesting the movement hadn’t suffered excessive wear despite its age.
Meanwhile, the crystal spent plenty of time being polished.
As the scratches gradually disappeared, the beautiful dial underneath began revealing itself once again.
Reassembly
Reassembly is always my favourite part of any restoration.
Watching dozens of tiny components gradually transform back into a functioning movement never gets old.
Fresh lubricants were applied throughout the movement before rebuilding the train, escapement, automatic works and keyless works.
One tool that made life much easier was my inexpensive set of Chinese mainspring winders.
Considering their price, they’ve been one of the best additions to my workbench.
Loading the mainspring safely back into the barrel was straightforward and far less stressful than attempting it manually.
Sometimes the budget tools really do surprise you.
Finally, the balance was installed.
A gentle nudge…
…and the movement immediately sprang back to life.
Seeing the balance oscillating after completing my first full ETA automatic service was incredibly satisfying.
Bringing the Watch Back Together
Once the movement was cased and the polished crystal fitted, the transformation was remarkable.
The dial finally became the star of the watch.
Depending on the lighting, it shifts effortlessly between olive green, bronze and warm golden tones.
Combined with the applied indices and slim baton hands, it captures the understated elegance of late-1960s Swiss dress watches.
Even with the honest wear remaining on the case, it now looks like a well-loved vintage watch rather than a neglected one.
What This Watch Taught Me
Every restoration leaves me with a few new lessons.
This Edox reminded me that:
- Having the right tools prevents unnecessary damage. The heavy-duty case opener made all the difference.
- Never assume every movement comes apart the same way. The ETA 2651’s cannon pinion certainly kept me thinking.
- Small engineering differences, like ETA’s dial retaining latches, can make servicing easier once you understand them.
- Taking the time to study an automatic winding system teaches far more than simply following a service guide.
- Good budget tools can absolutely earn a permanent place on the bench. My Chinese mainspring winders proved themselves once again.
Final Thoughts
This little Ladies Edox Automatic wasn’t purchased because I was looking for another watch to add to the collection.
Like many of my recent restorations, it simply came from another inexpensive bulk lot that I bought to continue learning watchmaking.
In the end, it became far more than just another project watch.
It introduced me to my first complete service of an ETA 2651, taught me several new techniques, and gave me a greater appreciation for one of Switzerland’s most prolific movement manufacturers.
That’s one of the reasons I keep buying these mixed lots.
You never quite know what’s hiding inside them.
Some watches become parts donors. Some aren’t worth saving. But every now and then you uncover a beautifully made Swiss watch with an interesting story and a movement that teaches you something new.
This Edox did exactly that.
It probably won’t stay with me forever. Like many of my project watches, it’ll likely find a new owner and help fund the next restoration.
But before it moves on, it’s already done its job.
It helped me become a better watchmaker.
And that’s worth far more than the watch itself.