You probably ended up on this page as have power problems with your LG Flatron monitor? I managed to solve that and helped others to fix theirs with this post.
A couple of days ago during the weekend, I booted up my trusted PC lo and behold I heard the Windows startup sound but my LG monitor (LG1753S) screen was still blank. I had this monitor for about 3 or 4 years now without any glitch. I used to leave it open for 72 hours sometimes. And this time it had failed to start up. So after checking the power is properly plugged, I shut down my pc again. Turned off the EPS and turn back on, the monitor power lit up(hooray?) but after a few seconds, it’s gone again.
So finally my LG screen is dead. After a couple of googling on my alternate internet device(HTC Hero), I found out it’s easy to fix. Thanks to this website for the amazing archive of fixing LCDs.
Just several capacitors were failing for me, being the jack of all trade that I am I decided I’ll fix it myself. I went to my trusted electronics shop and purchased some capacitors according to the article, but found out it wasn’t the right one. LOL. I opened up the monitor and upon inspection, the capacitor ratings are
- 4 1000uf 25v,
- 1 470uf 25v
- and 1 680uf 25v high temp.
So back to the electronics shop. So after removing the old capacitors and soldering the new ones. The Monitor is good and alive again. Cost around $3 only for the whole thing.
Sorry for no pictures as the pictures got corrupted.
So a little bit of guts and the need to save on service fee, just DIY(Do-It-Yourself), make sure you have the right tools and check the ratings of the capacitors before purchasing.
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Soldering Iron
- 1000uf 25v
- 470uf 25v
- 680uf 25v
Hope you found this useful and goodluck!
35 thoughts on “Fixing power problems with LG Flatron Monitor (LG1753S)”
Ive got a LG L1952TQ and it works fine until … I can start a game and then change the resolution, Popp of "energy saving mode digital" led goes from blue to yellow, but it is Windows is still active, as a matter of fact, everything is still active .. after a few ctrl-alt-del and tabs before and behind it is usually in the power mode again .. Does anyone have an idea of this annoying problem please let me know!
the best soldering iron are those using non-filament heaters, the tip should be made of steel alloy too.~”
I have an LG FLATRON Wide L226WTQ LCD monitor on my PC. The Blue light for the on off will no longer light up and I have to turn the powe strip on and of sbout 10 time to get the thing to turn on. I found your site with google, but no pictures show up. Still I will look at the caps in side. Thanks for posting this $3 to $12 is better than paying a few hundred for a new monitor.
I ‘m having the same problem with my LG192ws plz plz help me by emailing me pics(capacitors) and the name of the electronic shop
Thanks for providing the link to our web site. When doing repairs of this type be sure to use low ESR, high temp and high ripple current capacitors in the repair or you could damage the power supply board. The power supply boards have a high frequency inverter that will not work correctly without the right capacitors and could even short out if the wrong parts are used. The parts from places like Radio Shack will not work. Check out this page on our site about what brands and series capacitors to use. http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/capacitors/ We will be glad to help users repair their monitors, just let us know what your have questions about.
LG L246WH BN Monitor fails to start.
I have an LG L246WH monitor, just outside its 3 year warranty.
I had BLUE BLINKING LIGHT and intermittent turn on and or off, eventually failing completely. The blue light even blinked when switched off!
My SOLUTION, was to replace two blown capacitors on the power board,
AND IT WORKED!
Other blogs have suggested that the SAMWHA WB series capacitors may have been a problem, and in my case they certainly were. The faulty components were, two identical capacitors….described as…’High temperature radial electrolytic ultra low impedance capacitors-10v, 3300uf, 105 degreeC. (they may be different on your unit)
Most online electronics outlets stock them, at around 60p each! I got my caps’ from here:
10V 3300uF firstname.lastname@example.orgÂ°C Ultra Low Impedance Capacitor X 4pcs (120631012476)
If you interested ……….
THIS IS WHAT I DID
I am not an expert but have the skills to do this sort of job, can you do it?, judge for youself.
You’ll need a flat blade screw driver, small to medium cross head screw driver, magnifier recommended, fine point soldering iron, fluxed solder, plastic tub for screws, towel, spare table and a steady hand!
1. Remove the stand, four screws.
2. Carefully remove the screen bezel starting with a flat blade screw driver and gently lift one corner then move along each successive side until it pops off. Be patient and delicate or you may trash your bezel!
3. With the bezel removed, place the unit on its back, the screen assembly is not screwed into the case and will remove with careful manoeuvring. You will also need to lift out the switch circuit boards at this time as well, they just slide out.
4. With the case fully removed place the monitor face down on a towel or similar protective soft material ( I presume you still want it to look like new when youâ€™ve finished this job!) Remove the four small screws, (2 on each side) and the two screws securing the panel to one side, and remove that panel. Beneath it you will find a row of connectors, disconnect them all. You can now lift the metal back panel from the main chassis, as you do also disconnect the cable and connector that become visible.
5. You can now see two circuit boards, you want the one that has the power socket attached., and remove its five screws.
6. Carefully remove and turnover the board to expose the components, the faulty capacitors on my board were ‘C202 & C203’. The blown capacitors are identified by slightly raised or domed tops.
7. You will need to de-solder and remove these components and replace with new ones, which might be slightly larger, for this part of the job a fine point soldering iron is recommended and some degree of dexterity.
8. The de-soldering and re-soldering operation can be fiddly and must be done with much attention to detail, a magnifying glass is very useful and take care not to solder across adjacent tracks! TAKE A CLOSE LOOK AT THE AREAS YOU ARE ABOUT TO DISTURB AND NOTE ANY/ALL OF THE TRACKS THAT ARE CLOSE BY, EVEN TAKE PHOTOS FOR REFERENCE.
9. Re-assemble is opposite to dismantling,
10. Apologies if I have missed out an odd screw or so in the dismantling operation, I can say that I didn’t find any trick/hidden screws or attachment points, unclipping the bezel was the hairiest moment.
This operation solved my dead monitor, and I offer the above solution in the best of faith and hope it can help you if you are suffering similar issues.
NOTE: this solution was for an LG L246WH monitor, it may or may not be the solution to similar issues on other monitors, this has to be your judgement, GOOD LUCK.
NO RESPOSIBIKLITY CAN BE TAKEN FOR ERRORS RELATING TO THIS SOLUTION.(But it worked for me)
Same problem with C202, C203…thank you very much for your little “workshop manual” !!!
My panel is working now!
Best regards from Barcelona.
I â€˜m have problem with my LG192ws plz plz. And I Change 2 caps (220, 35v, 1000microfarad 25) which were obvious.
But when I change it keep blowing after 1 minute monitors switch on. Please help. I change the 1000Î¼Æ’ for twice it lasted less than minute. What could be wrong ?
I â€˜m have problem with my LG192ws plz plz. And I Change 2 caps (220Î¼Æ’, 35v, 1000microfarad 25v) which were obvious.
But when I change it keep blowing after 1 minute monitors switch on. Please help. I change the 1000Î¼Æ’ for twice it lasted less than minute. What could be wrong ?
advise to do the following. check it up from the start. replase the fuse, just to be sure also the bridge diode rectifier (you can also just test them and put the new ones, but better put new at this case), recap all board, test all diodes, especially the zener diodes, and then turn the attention to check all resistors of the power supply. this worked for me. i advise you to get the repair guide for your monitor, and so you can identify there components needed. but do not test it until u replace all of them.
i repeat, do not test until you replace all of them. its also possible for you the little solenoids can be the problem, but those can be tested easily i think. most probably just a bridge rectifier or diode or resistor but however just change all of them. if you cant then send me email to email@example.com so i identify the parts for you. they could cost approxymately 10 $
Worked for me! Thanks a lot 🙂
hi thanx alot for the great info but i got problem and need your help plz i have the same monitor 17 flatron lg and the problem is the two wires in the power cable got toutched and since then every time i plug another trusted cable the power button start blinking plz need help fast ?
Similar problem with a LG W2452T near enough to effect the fix in the same way. 4 bulging capacitors replaced (made in 2008 so must have been some of the last effected ones) now all back and working.
Thanks for all the help and links
Hi, I’m experiencing problems with my LG Flatron Wide. The screen comes on with a very faded picture and then goes black. I assumed that maybe the capacitors (like for others) needed to be changed. However, I have opened the monitor and the caps look perfectly fine, no bulges or anything. Does anyone think I should just go ahead and try changing the caps anyway? Or could anything else be wrong? Thanks a lot.
Thanks a lot!!!
Same problem, same sollution.
Great job, Ian.
i have a lg flatron w1934s doing the samething as listed here blinking power light & all,i belive its the same deal here its been good up till now i have had it for about 3 years ,to make sure its working i hooked it up to my laptop,still doing the samething ,so i belive its the same problem i tinker around with everything so i am going to hook up my spare monitor till i can get this 1 fixed
thankx for the info,i will let you know how it goes later
I have a LG Flatron 192WS-SN…crazy problem…power went out and I started computer back my montor had power, and was receiving signal. After the usual tone I entered the password and I heard the responding tone from my computer but still no picture. I borrowed a monitor and it worked. An IT person from work said to look at the microsoft updates and sure enough one had recently run. I restored my computer back to the day before the update, and when I reconnected my monitor, it worked….I kid you not! So my Question – is this a monitor issue or video card issue? (BTW I checked and have the most recent drivers installed)…kp
My Flatron Wide 236W died a second time, but differently: it suddenly went black. So, I replaced the capacitors (with 16V) ones this time, and it came back to life. However, it is now too dark, and the right side is lighter than the left side. I’ve done my best to make sure the soldering is very clean, etc., and I have no idea what might be going on.
Please, if anyone knows, do let me know?
Update: I just noticed something new! If I use the monitor menu to set the CSM (color temp of the screen), when I get to sRGB, I get a loud buzzing! Any other color does NOT buzz. Beat that!
Second, if I put my computer to sleep (it’s a MacBook Pro), the screen will wake but NOT show anything. I have to turn the screen off, then on, and then it will show something. This only happens when I wake the computer from sleep.
I have/had an Flatron Wide which has worked perfectly for about 2 years. Worked yesterday, yet ‘absolutely no sign of life’ when switched it on this morning.
Looking through previous comments, looks like a soldering iron is a key component of the fix. Soldering irons does not fill me with confidence, so alternative is? Bin?
Best regards, Peter
Thanks to Ian, great write up on fixing the Lg monitor. I have the same one and it lasted 5 years, daily used a lot and it started the blue power flickering issue as others. Same 2 bad caps had blown so ordered it off today, your ebay item number :120631012476 is working fine and cost about 3 quid.
this youtube video showed how to open her up:
I am now going to look for a video on replacing bad caps and may give it a go myself ! seems everyone else has been and it worked out for them…
Heres some videos on replacing bad caps:
important to note the negative side of the cap !
I had a basic solder iron like the guy in the above vid so will give it a go myself once the caps are delivered.
I too hate the idea of a solder iron and messing around with electrical stuff, but once you see the vids on youtube you may feel more braver. There are many people out there just doing it themselves and some of them mentioned they only have the basic skills.
I checked to see if one can order the LG power board from even on google or ebay it does NOT appear one can source or buy it.
Opening the LG monitor was simple and done in about 10-20 minutes, just requires patience and care and flat head and philips head screwdriver. Remember not to force any cables out, there is often a small clip holding half of the cable and it does still need a bit of force, the video I posted above is great at showing that.
If worst comes to worst order off the Replacement capacitors since were talking few dollars/pounds and get an electrical repair shop to replace the bad caps for you, would take the guy surely 5-10 minutes to do it and cost hopefully very little.
Just an update I tried using the soldering iron and some solder today.
I would youtube “how to replace bad capicitors” so you get the right idea on replacing bad caps.
Anyhow id recommend like Ian did above to take pictures of the TFT, even when you take it apart with the wires and connectors, and once you remove the Lg power circuit board take pictures of the back of it and front just in case !
Anyhow id recommend running some test on the solder iron and solder, try and get a feel of how it works and test it on some cardboard or something thick you can chuck away…
I tried to desolder the bad caps to remove them and managed to get some solder on the other tiny silver lane, and this solder/metal becomes solid in a second.
Id advise a sharp tipped solder iron/ some solder and solder wick. The wick can remove it far better, I did not have any of that just a philips head type solder iron and some spare solder, but in the end I replaced the caps making sure the negative side of the cap was correctly positioned ( just like the ones next to it) and created 4 small solder blobs. Was not done to well but enough to secure the wires and I made sure it was strong and not wobbly, reassembled the entire TFT and its alive again.
So even a dodgy soldering session from myself still got it done and working fine !
Ian, thank you so much for your guide for fixing L246WH, thanks to you, my monitor is working again!
The blown capacitors (C202, C203) cost 1euro, while a repair service would cost me a whole a lot more.
I just love this monitor for 1920x1200p resolution.
Thank you again!
I have LG flatron L226wtq. No power on. No blue light.. Help would be much appreciated by moa.. Thanks
i am using lg flatron wide… i am getting a green colour line (single line) at the center of the screen…
hi to all ,I am having similar problem my lg monitor l177wsb starts show the screen for 5-10 seconds the go black again to start it continously i have on and off again and again for nearly 50 times what should i do help me .i asked my nearby electronic repair shop and he asked for 6 thousand rupees .he said that he will replace power supply unit …help me and save my money .whatshould i d thanks .
I too had a defect screen, it was the L227WT. The fault was, that it hessitated to start up, it sort of pumped for a while, after some time it stopped working at all.
My biggest problem was to remowe the cabinet, but there the decription was a great help.
I replaced all electrolytic capacitors on the Power Board, 7 pieces. After that the screen worked –
Thank you for your help
[…] Fixing power problems with your LG Flatron Monitor (LG1753S … â€“ I have an LG FLATRON Wide L226WTQ LCD monitor on my PC. The Blue light for the on off will no longer light up and I have to turn the powe strip … I had BLUE BLINKING LIGHT and intermittent turn … I’m experiencing problems with my LG Flatron Wide. The screen comes on with a very faded … […]
mine is lg flatron w1953te, in my screen resolution i cant see my monitor model instedad of it i see generic non pnp monitor i dont know wht to do. i tried updating my drivers software but no use please any one help me
I have flatiron tv 42 inche when showing images it has blue lining in the images please assist me I indentify the problem
I have two lg flatron w2346 monitors, and one of them started giving me trouble. when turned on, there’s a sound like the old tv is being turned on, kind of hiss/beep sound, and picture appears for a second or two and then disappears. every time i turn it off and back on again, the picture appears for a second and then it’s gone. i checked all the caps visualy, and they all seem fine. any other suggestions, or should i try changing the caps anyway? thanks
So I’ve been having this same problem, and will be replacing the caps you mentioned real soon, seeing as 2 of them are slightly bulged. But I was really interrested in the article you linked, being such “an amazing archive.” So you can imagine my shock when the link gave me a page that said “This request is blocked by the SonicWALL Gateway Geo IP Service.” I mean, seriously? WTF could possibly be so secret that it has to be blocked off from the rest of the world? CATCH A WAKE UP!!! This isn’t the 16th century anymore.
Since you can reach them, please do me a favour (actualy, do the rest of the world a favour) and tell them to get with the program.
A non-US citizen of the world.
Thanks Ian. Another L246whx ficed thanks to your instructions.
I have a flatron L1715s the flat do not come on at all. i have open it there is no caps rise or bad, the resistor is all good.please somebody should help me.
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