From non-runner to elegant daily wearer
The watch
This project started like many of my recent finds — an elegant vintage watch with good bones, but clearly neglected. The watch arrived as a non-runner, with a damaged bracelet and no real information available online about the exact model.
What immediately stood out, though, was the design. A slim rectangular “tank-style” case, classic Roman numerals, and restrained proportions that still feel timeless today.
A short history of Buren
Buren is a name that doesn’t always get the recognition it deserves. Founded in Switzerland in the late 19th century, Buren Watch Company became particularly well known for its technical innovations in the mid-20th century.
The brand is perhaps most famous for:
- Micro-rotor automatic movements
- Its role in the Chronomatic (Calibre 11) project alongside Heuer, Breitling, and Hamilton
By the late 1970s and into the 1980s, like many Swiss brands, Buren adapted to the quartz era. During this time they produced elegant, design-focused watches using slim Swiss quartz movements — often prioritising style and wearability over complications.
This rectangular model fits squarely into that period.
Design & aesthetics
The watch follows a classic tank-style layout, inspired by early 20th-century rectangular dress watches:
- Slim rectangular case
- Roman numeral hour markers
- Minimalist dial layout
- Integrated bracelet that flows cleanly from the case
It’s understated, balanced, and very wearable — especially on smaller wrists. The proportions are the real strength here.
Specifications
Brand: Buren
Origin: Swiss
Era: Late 1970s – 1980s
Movement: ETA 980.003 (Swiss quartz)
Jewels: 7
Case: Gold-plated rectangular case
Crystal: Mineral
Dial: Silver tone with Roman numerals
Bracelet: Original integrated bracelet
Functions: Hours and minutes
About the movement
The ETA 980.003 is a slim, reliable Swiss quartz movement used across a number of well-known brands during this era. Variants of this movement architecture were also used in rectangular watches from brands like Longines and Gucci, making it a proven and well-supported calibre.
How we can date it (without guessing)
Movement: ETA 980.003
- Introduced in the early quartz era
- Widely used from the late 1970s through the 1980s
Condition on arrival
When the watch arrived:
- Not running
- Bracelet damaged and incomplete
- Dial with some blemish but still in good condition
- Case structurally sound, with cosmetic wear consistent with age
At first glance it looked like a parts watch — but being new to watch restoration I need to inspect all the details to be sure.
The restoration process
Diagnosing the non-runner
The first step was opening the case and inspecting the movement. Being a Buren my assumption was it was a likely mechanical watch but it turns out to be an ETA quartz movement.
Thankfully, there was no corrosion or battery leakage — a common killer for vintage quartz watches.
After a thorough inspection and cleaning:
- Battery contacts were refreshed
- A fresh battery cell was installed
- The movement came back to life immediately
A simple fix, but one that often determines whether a watch is worth saving.
Bracelet repair and sizing
The bracelet was the bigger challenge.
The original integrated bracelet had been damaged and partially disassembled at some point in its life. Fortunately, all the links were present — they just needed attention.
- The bracelet was carefully rebuilt
- Extra links were removed for sizing
- Spare links are retained for future adjustment
Once restored, the bracelet completely transforms the watch and makes the design feel cohesive again.
The result
With the movement running reliably and the bracelet restored, this watch has become a beautiful, wearable vintage piece rather than a forgotten drawer watch.
It wears slim, sits comfortably on the wrist, and has that quiet elegance that rectangular watches do so well.
Final thoughts
This is exactly why I enjoy restoring vintage watches. Sometimes it’s about taking a watch that was written off as a non-runner and giving it another few decades of life.
Buren may not have the name recognition of some larger brands, but the design, quality, and history are absolutely there — and that’s often where the best value and enjoyment lies.